All My Advice On Retinoids

At least for right now

“It’s been a long time coming…” —Taylor Swift

When I tell people I write a beauty hotline newsletter, a good 50% of the questions I get are about retinoids. These are questions I prefer to answer 1:1 — there’s a good deal of science and nuance when it comes to retinoids and I’m no doctor (I just play one on TV). So, it’s complicated! 

But maybe it doesn’t have to be that complicated either. When I think about myself, or you, as the skincare everyman, I realize: It’s not like you’re preparing for your Boards or anything. You really only need to know the highlights and not give yourself a chemical burn. We can definitely manage that here.

So let’s make it easy, shall we? What follows is my most-given advice on retinoids, no matter your knowledge level:

Think of retinoids as skin insurance.

Retinoids encourage your skin to more rapidly turn over cells, so that you’re left with fresher, baby-er skin that’s full of collagen and rid of excess sebum. Different retinoids will do this better than others. Strong, prescription-grade retinoids are great, particularly if you struggle with acne (I personally use Arazlo, a very strong tazatorene Rx). But weak gentle retinoids can be helpful, too. It all depends on your skin type, tolerance level, and goal.

Start with your dermatologist.

And not because I don’t trust you. I just think you’re probably wasting your time (and maybe your money) comparison shopping at Sephora. All those different words that sound like retinoid actually mean different things and work at different percentages. There’s a reason you’re confused! That’s how they want you to feel! 

Here’s the thing: A derm will hook you up with the most effective stuff for your skin after actually looking at it in person and hearing what you have to say. I know access and affordability vary, but if it’s within your means, this level of tailored service is critical. Depending on your insurance, it could also be MORE cost effective than buying something OTC. 

This is also the only direction to go if you’re looking to solve breakouts. I tried to cure my forehead acne for years on my own. I had access to literally every product on the market. For free. I saw the best facialists on multiple continents. For free! But I was still playing whack-a-mole with deep, painful zits. Then I went to my dermatologist. One Rx to tretinoin .025% later and it was like I’d never even HEARD of acne, much less experienced it.

Don’t be fooled by a “low dose”.

That .025% tret script isn’t for babies. In reality, it’s a heavy hitter for most. You could be using her successfully for a long time. But she can also be your gateway to the progressive overload approach. Every few years, I notice my tolerance increasing and my derm gives me a stronger formula. This thrills her. I live to please. 

Be goal oriented.

Retinoids are a long game. This means you want to start using them now and consistently use them as long as it is responsible (for example: not while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding). I said it before: It’s like skin insurance. Keep that baby-fresh collagen cooking.

But you can and should start slow. Like once-a-week slow. Work your way up to a few, non-consecutive days of the week. That’s why we were seeing that skin cycling technique going around TikTok late last year:

Day 1: Chemical exfoliant

Day 2: Retinoid

Day 3: Rest

Day 4: Rest

I dig it! It’s a lot to remember, but it’s a solid routine. If you’re frustrated by not seeing results, I caution patience. Remember that skin cells can take 6 to 8 weeks to turn over. You’ll get there. Your skin will tell you when you’ve upset it (by flaking or being super red). Have your Avène Cicalfate or La Roche-Posay Cicaplast on hand for that. But don’t give up (yet). If you can handle it daily, start to think about jumping up a level.

Be creative, within reason.

If you have sensitive skin, for instance! Try layering a hydrating serum or light cream under your retinoid to give skin a bit of a buffer. (I hear different camps say different things about if you should put your Rx creams directly on clean, dry skin or layer your serum weights first. Chalk it up to a matter of preference.)

For this I’d try a spritz of Tower 28 SOS Spray, followed by something with natural moisturizing factors, like CosRX Snail Mucin. Then your retinoid. Then a nourishing cream. 

Know your limits.

Never do more than a pea size amount, and be thoughtful about where you apply it. After months of using tret on my forehead, I got cocky. I applied it all over my face. This was a terrible idea. While I knew that I had a propensity for rosacea on my cheeks, I didn’t know I could get perioral dermatitis around my mouth. Tret made both worse. So I stopped using it anywhere other than my forehead. Problem solved. 

Sometimes it irritates my eye eczema. In that instance, I throw some of the Hydrocortisone Aquaphor on there and it improves overnight.

When to stop.

That said, retinoids are NOT for everyone. If you determine you’re intolerant, even after going low and slow, change course. It’s fine! I would make sure to have a vitamin C + SPF in the morning and add a niacinamide serum to your routine at night (I’m using Hyperskin Vitamin C, Zitsticka Megashade, and Allies of Skin Niacinamide, respectively). Maybe splurge on some Vintner’s Daughter or the new Westman Atelier Skin Activator. There’s gotta be some consolation prize for your troubles. 

What about Botox? 

Anytime anyone asks me if/why they should consider Botox, I ask them if they’re using a retinoid. There’s a decent chance that a retinoid could eliminate (or at least decrease) your interest in freezing your forehead. But no judgment — whatever you decide is between you and your 11s. None of my beeswax.

Still got questions?

That’s why we have a comment section. See you there.